News & Observer food critic Greg Cox says: Bella Italia's name and casually romantic strip mall décor may be generic, but gregarious owner/chef Carlo Nicolazza gives the restaurant all the personality it needs. That Nicolazza's is a native of Naples is evident in his accent, as well as in first-rate Neapolitan style pizzas and seafood dishes such as frutti di mare Alfredo. If you're not in a seafood mood, penne boscaiola is an excellent alternative. Save room for cannoli.
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