News & Observer food critic Greg Cox says: An elegant but comfortable atmosphere, polished but small-town-friendly staff, and inventive contemporary fare prepared by owner/chef Aaron Vandemark make Panciuto worth a drive to Hillsborough, regardless of where you live in the Triangle. Stellar options have included olive oil-braised duck legs, black and white tagliolini with shrimp and calamari, sweet pumpkin-Amaretto ravioli, but it's nearly impossible to miss when ordering from the seasonally evolving menu. Save room for dessert. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.
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